Council nightmare forces award-winning hidden gem restaurant to shut its doors

By HOAR Team 8 May, 2025 5 mins read 74 Views

God. I'm absolutely fuming as I write this. Another small business crushed by bureaucratic nonsense that could have been avoided with a simple conversation.

I drove past Paternoster Farm last weekend. String lights still hanging, that cute little vine in a barrel by teh door... no indication of the heartbreak happening inside. This place was magic – tucked away in sleepy Hundleton, Pembrokeshire, where you'd never expect to find food that The Times raved about.

Audio Summary of the Article

From courtroom to kitchen: a dream shattered

Michelle Evans traded her life as a divorce lawyer for something completely different – a restaurant built inside an old milking parlor. (The irony that she once helped people negotiate fair settlements isn't lost on me here.)

She's entirely self-taught. Let that sink in.

"This peninsula means a lot to me," Michelle told me when I called her yesterday. "We've spent four years pouring time, money, our heart and soul into this place. We're just about getting there, and now we have to leave."

The restaurant received glowing reviews from serious food critics. Charlotte Ivers from The Times described the food as "superb" and praised how it balanced "countryside authenticity and fashionable cooking."

What the hell happened?

According to Michelle, Pembrokeshire County Council has basically kicked them out. No discussion. No negotiation. By the time they were made aware, their beloved Paternoster Farm had already been offered to another party.

The council apparently wants them to relocate to north Pembrokeshire – completely ignoring the fact that they've built a business deeply connected to their current community. People literally plan holidays around eating there!

I reached out to the council for comment. Still waiting. (Not holding my breath.)

Started during lockdown... because why make life easy?

Back in 2020, when most of us were perfecting sourdough and binge-watching Tiger King, Michelle and her husband Leum were launching a business. They started small – selling home-reared meat and pastries – before evolving into the restaurant that food lovers now drive miles to visit.

And it worked! Against all odds!

Now 12 staff members face uncertainty. I spoke with one of the servers last year who told me she'd never worked somewhere with such a family atmosphere. Poor woman.

The future? Cloudy with a chance of determination

Michelle doesn't have an exact closing date yet. "We're still coming to terms with the news," she explained. "We're not sure what our next project will be, but we are keen not to lose momentum."

She's committed to staying in Pembrokeshire. "Whether it's a restaurant, café, or pub—we're not ready to give up. We owe it to our brilliant staff and loyal suppliers to keep going."

I spent £120 on dinner there last summer. Worth every penny. The way they transformed that rustic space with wooden beams and dried flowers hanging from the ceiling... it felt like eating in someone's very stylish farmhouse.

Visit while you still can

Michelle's parting words struck me: "If a new opportunity arises that needs us to act quickly, then we may close sooner, so come and eat with us while you still can."

Listen. If you're planning a trip to Pembrokeshire this summer – adn thousands do flock to this gorgeous county each year – make a detour to Hundleton. Milton Haven with its waterfront dining is lovely, and St David's (Britain's tiniest city) is charming, but this hidden gem deserves your support in its final days.

Sometimes I wonder why we make it so damn difficult for small businesses to thrive in this country.

I'll be booking one last meal there this weekend.

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